The most beneficial Resolution is to address your situation from previously mentioned, by including a major degree of rigid foam over your existing roof sheathing. You may Construct up the layers you, of You should purchase SIPs or nailbase panels.
I am designing a house and we are utilizing cellulose in 2x12 roof rafters, And that i discovered an item that looked wonderful. It really is an insulated nailbase referred to as Interesting-Vent by Hunter Panels. It provides around 25.6 R-benefit in foam insulation (in thicknesses as many as 6" which include a 1" airspace and plywood) even though delivering a cooling vent underneath the shingles, and straightforward installation for the roofing Along with the nailbase.
Very well the roof is going on with the very first layer of insulation (on-best the purlins, under the roof sheeting). There appears for being more than enough House left inside the 4" purlin cavity for the 2nd layer of R11 to generally be set up with none modification.
This roof assembly seems rather cathedral but if i fully grasp accurately its not vented in the slightest degree, but has generous above sheathing foam. Is this regarded as a vapour Harmless assembly looking at this informative article states "Set up rigid foam insulation over the roof sheathing and air-permeable insulation in between the rafters.
We have been just lately putting in a lot of closed mobile foam directly to the roof sheathing with fantastic benefits. On the other hand I'm wondering Should you have heard about what takes place once the unavoidable roof leak happens?
The roof was shingles on t&g pine decking. Insulation was proper up towards that pine decking considering the fact that 77 and it is 2014. Things seems like it was set up yesterday. Not a nasty location anywhere, no roof vents absolutely unvented roof.
A. As I wrote in the write-up, "Most rafters aren’t deep adequate to accommodate the insulation needed to fulfill bare minimum R-values needed by code, especially if the rafter bays include things like a air flow channel. ...
I choose to effectively insulate my cathedral ceilings and was pondering to spray two inches of closed cell foam to sheathing, then fill with dense packed cellulose. I am thinking if I am able to connect craft paper and pine paneling into the 2x8 rafters and then fill the bays with cellulose.
Many thanks once again. The roofer agrees that 2x4 framing to boost the peak more than the vented attic can be a workable Remedy to match up the roof lines.
To avoid moist interior air from getting in contact with cold surfaces close to the ridge, You'll need a true air barrier and an actual insulation layer. The right way to fix this issue is to expose the rafter bays -- possibly from over or under, It is your choice -- and pull out the fiberglass insulation. Place the fiberglass within a dumpster. Then fill the rafter bays with spray polyurethane foam.
As I spelled out in the article on this webpage, you can't use fluffy (air-permeable) insulation in an unvented roof assembly Until you consist of rigid foam or spray foam earlier mentioned the fluffy insulation.
I am a homeowner with cathedral ceilings which were extra all through remodeling and expansion of my property while in the late 90s. Only the ridge beam is uncovered. The remainder of the ceiling is covered with drywall. Through the years There's been some condensation leak down the side in the ridge beam on some mornings in March/April.The house is about 4 miles with the Coastline in Southern Califonia, so zone 3b. You can find 4 recessed lights inside the ceiling around the facet of your beam that receives the condensation, but In addition there are lights on the aspect that is always dry. There is absolutely no air conditioning in the home. Heat is made use of in the course of the evening only about a official source dozen evenings a 12 months, not over the condensation. Normally the Home windows are open. It seems the condensation shows up on mornings when there isn't a marine layer (no clouds in the morning) and also the temperature heats up fairly early after a extremely great night. The issue ceiling faces east/west as well as condensation is about the east struggling with facet with the beam. The roof is black asphalt shingle. I understand that there is no caulk/sealant among the side of the beam plus the spot where the drywall butts versus it, so there is a modest air gap there.
Ensure the roof assembly Visit Your URL is as near airtight as you can also make it. If you're working with fluffy insulation, you will need two air limitations: one particular down below the insulation, and just one earlier mentioned the insulation.
That looks pretty attractive: go with R-30 about the underside in the deck at our household making use of a mix of fiberglass batts and XPS as I explained higher than, and then insert Visit This Link a further R-ten (2" XPS) on the top aspect whenever we tear down and re-roof? Regrettably that seems like it's much too uncomplicated.